Yes, it is a Vampire flick. Yet, ONLY LOVERS LEFT ALIVE is much less and much more than that.
Less: It totally lacks the jolly-ghastly-fun of TrueBlood and the gothic blood thirst of your average Vampire.
More: The film is an orgiastic feast for the eyes, it is full of puns and poetry and it puts Vampires in a perfectly woven background of history, wisdom and elegance.
Less is more? With Vampires by Jim Jarmusch, yes. Definitely.